Oct 16, 2018 | By Nigel Taylor
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Jun 01, 2018
By WGSN Insider
Central Saint Martins has the reputation for moulding some of the most reputable creatives across the globe. Every year, CSM shines a spotlight on a selection of students, unveiling collections ranging across womenswear, menswear, print, knitwear – and everything in-between. This week, WGSN editor’s flocked to 1Granary to witness a new generation of talent unfold. Here are the names you need to take note of.
Wenjun Zhu, Print
Selected by Jane Boddy, Director of Colour
I loved this impactful collection from print designer Wenjun Zhu. Her fresh approach to colour highlights the importance of contrast, blending a sophisticated mix of neon yellow with electric purple. Zhu’s line up resonated with one our Key Trends for AW 18/19, Dark Wonder – where virtual and real-life overlap, complete with a colour palette where the dark and deep and luminous juxtapose for maximum effect.
Hinako Nakazawa, Print
Selected by Anna Ross, Associate Editor, Womenswear
Decedent and gloriously indulgent, this collection immediately make me lock eyes with my fellow editors as we all gave simultaneous nods of approval. Dripping in crystals, feathers, sequins and grandeur, Hinako’s collection proved “too much” is never enough. Nakazawa’s talent reminded me of a Galliano-esque presence – far beyond the realms of a young designers line-up. Now, where can I get my hands on one of Hinako’s patent trench coats?
Courtney Mitchell, Womenswear
Selected by Hannah Craggs, Colour Editor
Mitchell’s collection fused a sense of primness with prettiness. Colour usage, in particular, captured a sense of warmth and familiarity, sensitively yet effectively applied. Softened primrose yellow sat comfortably next to bitter dark browns delivering a homespun yet polished look. Plaids in sweetened apricot, bluebell and blossom pink took on a dreamy chalkiness, while the sharpness of crisp black and white brought a modernity that kept the collection feeling pretty yet fresh.
Simon Valer Dacsef, Womenswear ( LVMH Grand Prix Winner L’Oreal Young Talent Award)
Selected by Kirsty Sears, Senior Womenswear Editor
Models took to the runway dressed in super-sized silhouettes and the 80’s influence was clear to see, with exaggerated frills and ruffles draped in structured satins. Elsewhere, naïve graphics were hidden within prints, and subtly placed embroideries added a novelty element balancing the brash 80’s with a softer, more playful side. A bold collection that signals playful dressing is the new party dressing.
Florence Lamy, Knit
Selected by Nick Paget, Senior Menswear Editor
In creating a collection that referenced subcultures and taking elements which should’ve felt intimidatingly tough, Florence subverted the perverted, sending her models down the runway in fierce S&M-inspired, embellished and printed looks which actually had a vulnerability and light-heartedness in their revealing cuts and vibrant colours. Across the CSM show, it was great to see an exuberance and joie de vivre that is essential to push culture forward; especially given the state of the world right now. If fashion designers can’t be a little extra, then what’s the point in anything?!
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