Mar 27, 2019 | By Volker Ketteniss
Lanvin is always a crowd pleaser each season, and for their F/W 09/10 outing, designer Lucas Ossendrijver certainly did not disappoint with a collection full of the perfect mix of “formal/athletic chic.” The designer and the house’s creative director, Alber Elbaz, were heard telling reports pre-show, “how to be real and radical” was the major theme for the season. It showed in a very sellable assortment of cropped, soft-shouldered blazers, slim knit pants tucked into some amazing lace-up boots, and glossy leather bombers. The house’s quintessential two-toned satin sneakers were noticeably absent for fall, but the expected silky touch of seasons past was realized in the form of lustrous scarves, free-flowing pocket squares, and on some of the pants. A military tone was nowhere near as obvious and over the top as other Parisian collections of the week. The slight hard edge (the boots, the cropped silhouettes, the frayed seams, and the hats) was the perfect contradiction to the luxe fabrics. The color palette was by and large neutral and sober, but an occasional pop would manifest, like the monochromatic raspberry sorbet-toned suit in the middle of the show. The essence of the collection obviously stood for a quiet, subtle anticipation for better days, and it certainly paid off.
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