New York: Thakoon Panichgul served up a decidedly sexy collection for F/W 12, a notable contrast to his sweet and sporty Pre-Fall offering. Gone were the textured pastels and cocoon silhouettes, replaced by saturated brights and grown-up camel with hourglass silhouettes and strategic keyhole cutouts. Inspired by an art installation of the red-light district in Amsterdam, Panichgul drew abstract neon stripes across satin dresses and experimented with leather basketweave panels. One tan overcoat worn as a dress even featured a gathered asymmetrical front, as if it was held closed by a clandestine flasher. But in the end, the designer’s version of sin was both witty and playful: heart prints and lipstick toned leather sleeves as well as fluffy Mongolian lamb sweaters made for an approachably alluring collection.—Nina Stotler

Silhouette: Hourglass / Fitted / Boxy / Relaxed / A-line

Color: Black / Cherry / Fuchsia / Grey / Camel / Purple / Cranberry / Vibrant coral / Tan / Tangerine

Key Items: Molded long sleeve dresses / Trench coat dresses / Relaxed skirts / Gathered leather t-shirts / Satin pencil skirts / Cropped leather jackets / Hooded wool blazers / Fluid trousers / A-line skirts / Cutout dresses / Mongolian lamb sweaters

Materials: Silk / Satin / Leather / Cashmere / Silk jacquard / Velvet

Print + Pattern: Stripes / Heart prints / Animal prints / Peacock feather graphics

Details + Trim: Padding / Ruffles / Gathering / Basketweave cutouts / Hoods / Bows / Pleating / Keyhole cutouts / Drawstrings / Sequin appliqué / Asymmetry

Accessories + Footwear: Bow ties / Pointed pumps / Knee-high lace-up leather boots / Hair bands


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