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Thakoon

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MIXED MESSAGES

New York: In his young career, Thakoon Panichgul has enjoyed critical acclaim (from the CFDA and others), strong support from retailers and a loyal following among hip young things in New York and beyond. It seems he has chosen to emulate the always-keep-them-guessing style of Marc Jacobs with whiplash-inducing thematic changes – tribal for Resort, ethereal for S/S 11 and now a mix of minimalism, 70s inspirations and punchy pop prints. Though a bit scattered, the collection was chockfull of appealing pieces – shift dresses that were sheer from the thigh down, a knit peplum pencil skirt, flared trousers and playful printed tops. A standout black and white printed dress with a high slit featured a motif reminiscent of an M.C. Escher. The designer’s hook-and-eye closure from last spring returned – the sole element of continuity – used in place of buttons for henley tops, on tab waists for pants and running down the front of a seductive long red dress. While Panichgul’s themes seem to be slightly scattershot of late, his talent is in knowing what the cool girls want to wear, and this collection provided just that.

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