New York: With a decidedly dark and downtown fall collection, it looked like fashion darling Thakoon Panichgul was undergoing a rebellious phase. The romantic floral dresses that have made Michelle Obama and Anna Wintour fans were kept to a minimum and in their place were slouchy sweatpants, rugged union suits and fur jackets a-plenty. Inspired by the image of a half-shaven sheep, the clothes were uncharacteristically raw with patchworked fabrics and prints, unfinished hems and layered styling. The sheep was an ongoing reference point, translating into shearling-lined velvet burnout jackets and randomly placed flounces on dresses and skirts. Although the edgier offerings worked well, not all romance and refinement was lost – cable knit-patterned baize coats, velvet jackets, and cosmetic-toned draped separates that came at the end of the show served as lasting reminders of the designer’s unwavering idealism.
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