May 23, 2019 | By Alice Gividen
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New York: Since his debut in 2005, Thakoon Panichgul has quietly emerged as a key American fashion player. Granted, he doesn’t enjoy the red-carpet exposure of a Zac Posen or Vera Wang, but he does have the support of Anna Wintour and a strong line-up of retail accounts in his arsenal. Wearable luxury with a girly twist is where Panichgul excels. Last season the designer received warm reviews for his whimsical, romantic collection of collaged botanical and bird prints, paillette-covered slip dresses and delicate embroidery. F/W 13 borrowed some of those elements—the piecemeal prints and lace panels, a touch of sparkle and blown-up floral prints—and dragonflies took the place of birds as the winged motif of choice. His is the kind of clothing fit for Upper East Side lunches and professional women with loosened-up office dress codes (we imagine Wintour herself has a few of his skirt suits in her working wardrobe). The gorgeous array of coordinated flared skirts and cropped jackets in textured wools, furs and organza, some with leather inserts, would do nicely for those purposes. As would the fur stoles that were belted across the body to create a 40s nipped-waist silhouette and the lady-like princess coats. That’s not to say some of his garments couldn’t work downtown, too, particularly the flirty printed dresses with petite collars and asymmetric seams, tactile kidskin shell dresses and edgy gold and silver metallic ankle boots, which kept things interesting. — Natalie Shukur
Silhouette: Nipped waist / Belted / Fit & flare / Tailored / Lady-like / Knee-length
Color: Black / White / Dusty blue / Powder pink / Navy / Fuchsia / Biscuit / Coffee / Lavender / Ice blue / Cream
Key Items: Sleeveless and cap-sleeve shift dresses / Fur stoles / Fur separates / Skirt suits / Cap-sleeve shell tops and dresses / Princess coats / Cropped jackets and pants / Dropped shoulder jackets and coats / Tailored, tapered pants / Collared blouses
Materials: Silk / Satin / Lace eyelet / Fur / Kidskin / Wool / Glitter wool / Bouclé / Organza / Knits / Leather
Print + Pattern: Dandelion print / Leopard / Large scale florals / Lace eyelet / Dragonfly motifs
Details + Trim: Peplum tops / Cap sleeves / Glitter dragonfly motif / Slashed panels / Lace and leather inserts / Metallic beaded embroidery / Fur stoles / Boat necks / Three-quarter sleeves / Thigh slits
Accessories + Footwear: Ankle boots and slippers in black leather, patent, glitter, metallic gold and silver and white leather / Skinny leather belts / Ear cuffs
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