Nov 01, 2017 | By Nick Paget
Milan… Costume National’s Ennio Capasa spoke of “a new freedom” to the press before the start of the S/S 10 show. It was quickly obvious that his idea of independence came from hard-edged military looks not typically seen for the warmer months. With clothes that draped against the body like the heavy humidity of summer, Capasa’s “punk and youthful spirit” carried over nicely in the form of summer trench coats, relaxed tailoring with rolled sleeves and pant hems, elongated gauzy sweaters and cargo pocket detailing on crinkled fabric wovens. A silk double-breasted cropped bomber was a standout piece, giving that necessary sense of rebellion. Colors were were mostly crisp black and white, as well as neutral grey. However, a concluding group of bottle green poplin cotton suitings tucked into combat boots, sometimes paired with inky blue, was an excellent surprise for a summer collection. Tonal tailoring throughout the show added an extra layer of sophistication to this stream lined, yet casual, collection.
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