Sep 15, 2017 | By Katharine Smith
This week I had the pleasure to award one of the Kickstart designers from this year’s International Jewellery London show with the first Stylesight Kickstart Trend Award.
After meeting with each of the ten jewelry designers I had the truly difficult task of deciding who should win this title and a year’s subscription to Stylesight. As this was the first trade show for many of these jewelers having a Stylesight subscription at this stage in their career is a huge advantage in terms of aiding research into mega trends, colour, materials and buyer trends.
This year’s selection of designers was perhaps the best to date and showcased a range of styles, from conceptual themes to the celebration of materials and techniques.
After much debate I selected Claire English as the winner of the award. Her in-depth design research and excellently executed collection translated a number of on-trend themes, materials and items, and I felt that having access to Stylesight would enrich her future collections and also be aware of influential global trends affecting buying, sourcing and overall design.
Claire English – Stylesight Kickstart Trend Award Winner
Claire English‘s luxurious and whimsical collection focusses on the narrative potential of objects, childhood nostalgia, the idea of objects whose use is in decline being elevated to create fine pieces of jewelry. Drawing inspiration from literature and historic cultural phenomenon the latest collection features magpies stealing sparkling stones, mouse trap rings and embellished spent matches.
The group of designers within the Kickstart initiative showing at IJL are all ones to watch within the jewelry industry, and all received a great response from buyers and press during the show, here are a few highlights from each designer:
Emma Turpin‘s passion for traditional craftsmanship is reflected within her style, and interpreted through contemporary jewellery pieces. Victorian paper rosettes inspire a collection of articulated pieces from large scale one off rings to mixed metal, floral-like necklaces.
Jeweler Greig Alderman has created a characteristically original, unique and imaginative collection of pieces, under the name Cabbage is King. Which is comprised of exquisite statement pieces, which serve to blur the distinctions between jewelry and art, to the purely decorative and beautiful, translating themes of society, communism and re-contextualisation of form and an exploration of semantics.
Former city banker Johnny Mirpuri’s collection of sleek, structured pieces create striking silhouettes and have a versatile, contemporary feel. Using oxidized silver and strong highlight stones his collection presents a dynamic aesthetic that appeals to a range of consumers.
Born out of a love and interest in containers, and inspired by travel and her own heritage Sarah Ibrahim‘s first collection has an organic handmade feel with an industrial edge. Hidden interior contrast surfaces, etching and piercing techniques add a luxurious embellished air to the collection, which also expands to explore striking stylized silhouettes made into bangles, earrings and rings.
Beautiful artisanal techniques are the foundation of Doreth Jones‘ collection, culminating in striking fine fashion pieces. Using mixed materials including recycled silver, sustainable wood and contrast color enamels Jones creates must have on-trend pieces for the discerning consumer.
Winner of IJL’s Editor’s Choice award Abigail Stradling‘s collection is a fusion of hand crafted techniques with directional construction. Collaborating with a glass blower Stradling has arrived at a signature style of encapsulated natural particles within glass containers, elegantly adapted into pieces of wearable jewelry.
Using vintage postcards to create sterling silver pieces, evoking contemporary cameos Amy Keeper‘s collection combines a nostalgic influence and a modern take on sentimental jewelry. Using photographic techniques to achieve etched portraits and vintage tableaus onto wearable silver pieces. Keeper’s latest collection is influenced by a spyglass in a children’s story, her black and gold range features semi-precious stones and elements of movement.
Having learned how to make jewelry whilst living in Mexico, the designers behind La Diosa have kept an exotic influence throughout their multi-award winning collection. Showcasing beautiful semi-precious stones, set in statement pieces the new collection is a bold and varied fusion of shape, color and texture.
The debut collection from designer Gina Melosi created a buzz with press and buyers during the IJL show, attracting attention with a delicate yet dangerous effect. Shards of shattered glass are cast in recycled silver and plated in rhodium or rose gold, with polished edges and set with fair trade sapphires. This and her second collection, launched at the show this year have both conceptual and aesthetic qualities that look set to draw both the fine jewelry and fashion industry.
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