Jun 07, 2018 | By Samuel Trotman
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Stylesight continues its S/S 14 runway highlights with a round-up of the best denim looks to emerge from Stockholm Fashion Week.
For Spring 2014, Cheap Monday plays with the in-your-face aesthetic and kick-ass attitude of the bold artists of the ’90s. The collection consisted of three key themes; exaggerated silhouettes, fragmented reality and buffalo riot. Taking on similar themes seen at KTZ and Kenzo, the collection featured egocentric prints, patchwork looks, intarsia texts and collage prints. Motifs included eyes and tribal style lettering in a bright palette that made up the theme’s cartoonish aesthetic and street strong style. More refined pieces included monochrome matched sets in clean, saturated shades, while a play on the shadow patchwork techniques played with the perennial indigo colorblock trend.
BACK, by Ann-Sophie Back has become a real denim name to watch after wow-ing us over recent seasons. F/W 13’s clean utility inspired collection was a highlight and of course her successful stint at Cheap Monday was well documented. For S/S 14, the Swede denim queen has continued from last season’s striped-back vibe and this time, visited a more activewear, sporty feel with a strong sophisticated edge. Rigid glossy denims are given a casual, raw edge and clean basics were re-worked in indigo to create casual sophistication. Back references influences from Calvin Klein’s `90s sporty underwear campaigns, as well as the styling by Anna Cockburn in the mid-`90s and we can really see those references shine through in her beautiful denim pieces.
Swedish denim brand, The Local Firm always reference stark and clean industrial architecture in their collections and for S/S 14, have named the show “White Concrete” in celebration of “big city life, metropolitan summer nights and the wear and tear of the capital.” Their color palettes are often very monochrome but this season, stark white is a strong element to counter the usual textured darks. Solid black features more strongly than usual as a dramatic contrast. Clean destruction also features throughout with our favorite piece, an inventive classic trucker with zip-through front seams a show-stopper.
Sweden is all about supporting and promoting their home grown talent. Each season the Swedish School of Textiles degree show is included within the Fashion Week schedule, showcasing the best young designers on an international platform. For Spring 2014, the “Exit 13” graduate show presented 15 bachelor and master students, one of which included some progressive denim silhouettes. Gastav Falgén looked to the gritty topic of 1990s neo-nazis showcasing a runway of rough hooligans sporting jeans, balaclavas, bomber jackets and heavy duty boots. Bold bleach washes combined with oversized pant fits creating a more exaggerated take on ’90s style, while slim high-waisted fits cropped above the boots channeled more traditional skinhead looks.
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