Sep 26, 2019 | By Jane Boddy
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While Stockholm Fashion Week is usually known for its forward street style, a handful of designers are shaking things up and circumventing attention back to the runway. Sweden’s biggest fashion names like Acne or even H&M have also distracted from the country’s emerging pool of talent but we scouted through the schedule and attended this season’s top shows to discover some hidden gems. Here’s who you should watch:
Stockholm’s coolest new designer on the block, Selam Fessahaye celebrated her collection mid-week. Represented by The Talent Group, the costume designer veered away from just creating one-off pieces for musicians, commercials and movies to create 45 looks on her own accord. “I have for years created pieces for myself and for work,” said Fessahaye. “These pieces never reach their final destination before they take on a life of their own. I now feel a strong desire to tie it all together and present a full collection.” The inspiration for her collection was more about just “getting shit done” pulling references from the people she works with on a daily basis. “For me it always comes down to contrasts, complexity and a desire to feel free in everything I do.”
Luxury gets a cosy update with Soft Goat’s AW/18 collection. Sweden’s ultimate cashmere brand experiments with a range of silhouettes and styles using the natural, high quality material – think cashmere boots and off-the-shoulder sweaters. Using the internet as its sole distribution channel, Soft Goat aims to get prices at a reasonable level without compromising on quality. Showcasing two collections per year, the brand is embracing slow fashion where they can, taking “steps towards looking after every part of the production chain as well as the environment.” The team have embodied a Code of Conduct based on the United Nation’s internationally recognised principals for protection of human and workers rights. This season, the brand seamlessly blended glamour, comfort and athleisure teaming luxurious and slouchy knits with high-top sneakers.
This Swedish jewellery designer presented one of the most sensorial shows of the week. Taking over Skeppsholmskyrkan church, Maria Nilsdotter used the space thoughtfully to launch her A/W 18 ‘Moondust’ collection. Taking inspiration from “the Scandinavian mythology, melancholic nature and the world of Swedish painter and illustrator John Bauer,” the pieces paid tribute to the Swedish folk sagas. The ethereal presentation featured silver designs adorned with various stones like diamonds, rubies, sapphires and pearls. “In the collection, the objects take different shapes according to the reference points, hinting towards planets, fabled creatures, star-speckled skies and well worn treasures.”
A graduate of The Swedish School of Textiles, Ida Klamborn is slowly garnering the attention she deserves. The designer prides herself on balancing colour, shape and material, to develop “simple ideas into intriguing collections.” For this season, Klamborn took inspiration from the conflict of feelings, exploring “the actions of controlling and letting go.” A parade of bold, primary brights created a showstopping assortment executed in a variety of silky fabrics that highlighted the contrast of “soft aggression, kindness, strong assertiveness” she was aiming to achieve.
For more catwalk analysis and industry insight from our team, head to the Catwalks section on WGSN.
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