Steven Alan

New York: Over the years, Steven Alan has mastered the relaxed-tailored look, making a killing on his famous reverse-seam shirts and soft-shouldered blazers. For F/W 12, citing the recent Diego Rivera exhibition at the MoMA as inspiration, the designer’s aesthetic was decidedly WPA era-driven with a drab color palette and plenty of cozy woolens for tactile interest. This is where blue collar ruggedness meets white collar refinement, with a subtle ethnic influence thrown in for authenticity. Many of the knits were handmade in South America, while the consistent tonal stripes carried throughout referenced Mexican blankets. Taking his tailored clothing to the next level, Alan put his wool flannel through special washes and made cotton moleskin look downright luxurious. A slim 2×1 double-breasted jacket was one of the most contemporary versions seen to date. While Alan may not necessarily push the envelope, he consistently shows modern ways to wear basics better than most.  —Michael Fisher

Color: Grey / Olive / Khaki / Navy

Key Items: Striped jersey blazers / Parkas / Double-breasted suits / Tab-collar shirts / Tweed pants / Woolen jackets / Marled crewneck sweater

Materials: Tweed / Corduroy / Cotton moleskin / Wool flannel / Waxed and oil-coated canvas / Leather

Details + Trim: Tab collars for woven shirts / Double-breasted silhouettes / Extended tab waists / Pleats on pants / Patch pockets / Modified peak lapels for blazers

Accessories + Footwear: New Balance 993s / Felt fedoras / Suiting fabric ties / Leather sneakers / Chukka boots / Knit beanies / Marled wool scarves

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