May 23, 2019 | By Alice Gividen
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Paris: Stella McCartney’s personal relaxed yet minimalist style is having its moment in the sun, and this season McCartney’s designs didn’t just look like Stella, they looked universally current. The show opened with a series of ensembles that demonstrated how to wear structure effortlessly. Perfectly tailored coats with upturned notched collars, boxy mini shift dresses, crisp peg-leg trousers, structured wool tees, sculpted skirt suits, and an asymmetrical vest dress were modeled by girls who looked scrubbed clean, with bare faces and neat hair. There was also a group of sporty hooded raincoats. All were boxy and pieced together, but some were piped and others were trimmed in patent leather. As the show went on, it became subtly more feminine. Utility pockets disappeared, and were replaced by sheer silk trims, insets and overlays. The woolens gradually disappeared too, leaving fancier fabrics in their place. Minidresses appeared, covered in fish scale-like sequins, with delicate tails flowing from the backs of their hems. The final looks combined the structured feel of the show’s start with the delicate materials that were shown later. Sheer tops and dresses were tailored so finely that cleanly-formed darts were visible through sheer fabric. Underneath, the models wore lace bustiers, the patterns of which could also be seen through the sheer nude outer layers. Even the most femme of the ensembles were unfussy; nothing was over-designed. The absence of detail was the show’s biggest statement.
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