Oct 05, 2017 | By Carlene Thomas Bailey
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Paris: Dutch designer Steffie Christiaens may be new to the Paris schedule, but her experience is formidable. After three years at Balenciaga and Maison Martin Margiela, Christiaens founded her own line and was swiftly nominated as a finalist at the Festival de Hyères. For S/S 13 her collection took a fresh view of a common theme by citing an apocalyptic doomsday as her setting, a platform which inspired futuristic elegance rather than gloomy deconstruction. Iridescent pastel taffeta came layered and embroidered via molded tunic tops and slim trousers, many surfaces treated with a gorgeously swirled and shaved ruffle. This abstract motif was carried into pattern and construction, reflected in folded sleeves and draping, their peaks and swells recalling the lines on a seismic map. Although her techniques occasionally veered into the theatrical, Christiaens’ detailed and conceptual presentation guarantees her a spot on the ones-to-watch radar.—Nina Stotler
Silhouette: Slim / Hourglass / Off-the-shoulder
Color: Pastel pink / Iridescent white / Black / Pale lavender / Ice blue / Cobalt / Nude / Apricot
Key Items: Crisp transparent trousers / Slim blouses / Halter tops / Embroidered crop jackets / Capes / Halter dresses / Off-the-shoulder dresses / Sliced sheaths
Materials: Sheer taffeta / Chiffon / Shine treated silk / Satin / Macramé / Stretch silk
Print + Pattern: Abstract lines / Swirls
Details + Trim: Contrast cuffs / Piecing / Stiff peplums / Embroidery / Notch collars / Patterned shaved ruffles / Zippers / Cutouts
Accessories + Footwear: Round sunglasses / Molded bib necklaces / Long chain earrings / Boxy handbags / Cuff bracelets / Clutches
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