Sep 06, 2018 | By Lizzy Bowring
The show notes of Ann Demeulemeester’s F/W 09/10 collection pointed towards a theme called “Day Zero,” when her ideal man would start a new journey in life and begin to push forward for a new and hopeful tomorrow. Unlike other collections with similar themes (and futuristic visions for man), Demeulemeester made her hero look as though he would journey into the new day on a horse amongst castles (kind of a medieval Mad Max). The tall boots, cutaway jackets and a multitude of layers added to this characteristic. Subtle, soft texture is always one of the designer’s strong points, and fur, jacquards, and bulky knits proved the point. The beige and earth brown tones warmed up an otherwise black and white palette. For much of the outerwear, ornate metal buttons, contrast trim on the collar and cuffs, and some asymmetrical plackets pushed the styles into a more serious military territory. When the hypothetical “day zero” does, indeed, arrive, the men who look to Demeulemeester for inspiration will no doubt have all they need for survival and discovery.
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