Sep 18, 2017 | By Carlene Thomas Bailey
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New York: Caron Callahan’s latest collection for Standard Finery was comprised of uncomplicated wares, as the name suggests; however, the details were anything but ordinary. Inspired by the Met’s Art of the Samurai show, the Brooklyn-based designer took a different route from the usual futuristic warrior, and instead depicted the softer layer that might lay beneath the armor. A casual sweater was tucked into a miniskirt that was pebbled with the kind of floral matelassé pattern that might be used for a Samurai’s luxe kimono. Nomadic quilts were turned into colorful, patchworked scarves. Knit jackets were ruggedly plush with fat, brushed yarns and irregular slubs. The designer also displayed a deft hand at mixing in sweet countryside cross-stitch flowers and wallpaper ditsies — indicative of her previous experience at Tracy Feith and Derek Lam. A palette of dusty pottery tones and soft neutrals only reinforced the pastoral mood, evoking both the Zen attitude of Japanese culture and the rugged landscape of the American West.
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