For Sportmax’s spring collection, long-time designer Laura Lusuardi began with a classic trench and proceeded to dissect it in every way possible, reconfiguring it into cropped jackets, dusters, anoraks, dresses, rompers, pants and skirts. Little sister to the MaxMara line, Sportmax combined the more luxurious and feminine inclinations of its high-end sibling with a sophisticated yet sporty sensibility. Corsetry details and utilitarian features like drawstrings met in the same ensemble, as did tailored menswear pieces and lingerie lace. Lusuardi played with trompe l’oeil layers with a long jersey and charmeuse dress whose unraveling waist seam revealed a lacy lining beneath. Building on tried-and-true formulas has always been the creative strategy behind Sportmax, and this collection managed to address almost all of the season’s key trends — lingerie, cropped tees, activewear, chiffon layers, the trench coat — and interpret them in tasteful, wearable ways.
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