Jan 19, 2017 | By Jian DeLeon
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Milan: The first look in the fall Sportmax show – a rich brown fur coat with a grid-like pattern – set the mood for a collection based on texture and geometric shapes. Head designer Grazia Malagodi repeated that fur grid for a jacket and later included glossy, curly fur, which was used for a chic skirt suit and a pieced coat. Fringed trim, furry pile, and mohair sweaters added to the textural diversity. Materials with a slicker hand also appeared; strips of dyed eel skin decorated matte wool separates, and bonded leather panels were used for pleated dresses and skirts. Intarsia patterns on knits, fabric appliqués, and quilting all repeated the grid pattern from the show’s first look, making for a consistent, strong message. The clean lines and geometric shapes suggested a futuristic inspiration, but softer materials made it feel sensuous and warm. –Joanna Manganaro
Silhouette: Long-over-long / Boxy on top / A-line / Easy hourglass /
Color: Warm brown / Black / White / Caramel / Olive / Cobalt / Yves Klein blue / Purple / Navy / Aqua
Key Items: Grid-patterned fur coats / Pleated A-line skirts / Slouchy mohair sweaters / Collarless coats / Roomy trousers
Materials: Glossy fur / Curly fur / Suede / Matte wool suitings / Mohair yarns / Eel skin / Melange tweed / Bonded wool / Bonded leather / Shaggy pile / Chiffon
Print + Pattern: Grids / Wide stripes / Blurry plaid
Details + Trim: Quilting / Piecing / Contrast lapels / Box pleats / Eel skin appliqués / Fringed trim / Bonded leather trim / Sheer panels / Tweed square appliqués
Accessories + Footwear: Boxy cross-body bags / Fur gloves / Wide quilted leather belts / Pointy-toe pumps
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