May 10, 2017 | By Carlene Thomas Bailey
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TEXTURE + SHAPE
New York: As Max Mara’s younger sister label, Sportmax has more fun while still maintaining the high level of sophistication of its sibling. This season, designer Grazia Malagodi focused on texture and sculptural shapes. Luxurious materials characterized the offering, with lustrous leathers, glossy furs, and chunky tweeds offering a range of surface qualities. Even the prints – a mix of abstract squiggles – were based on texture motifs. The aforementioned fabrics, in addition to firm suitings, allowed Malagodi to create precise shapes, including A-lines and ovoid silhouettes. Pieced panels in geometric shapes and contrast trim brought more attention to these silhouettes, while zipper details that made for removable jacket lapels were innovative and fresh.–Joanna Manganaro
Silhouette: Ovoid / Cylindrical / Hourglass / A-line / Boxy
Color: Black / Navy / White / Dove grey / Charcoal / Brick red / Caramel / Cinnamon
Key Items: Shaggy fur coats / Texture print sheath / Removable-lapel jackets / Tweed shift / Leather pencil skirts
Materials: Beaver fur / Glossy leather / Chunky tweed / Shiny suitings / Fine-gauge cashmere / Felted wool
Print + Pattern: Texture motifs
Details + Trim: Detachable lapels / Contrast lapels / Fine pleats / Turtlenecks / Geometric pieced panels / Contrast trim
Accessories + Footwear: Equestrian helmets / Two-tone gloves / Quilted bowling bags / Peep-toe ankle boots / Pieced ponyskin ankle boots / Pointy-toe pumps
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