May 10, 2017 | By Carlene Thomas Bailey
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AN ASSEMBLED GEOMETRY
Milan: Amid the layered and florid looks in Milan this season, Sportmax’s architectural, modern presentation was especially fresh, an assembled geometry of asymmetric leather, graphic cutouts and patchwork grids. With strong shoulders and a boxy silhouette, convertible vests and jackets featured interesting details like raw cut epaulettes, while laminated strips accentuated the cantilevered construction of sheath dresses. Stark emerald, black and white gave much of the collection a sporty mood, as did a spongy woven mesh employed for round tops and ladylike baseball jackets. Although Sportmax faltered a bit with several fluid silk pieces out of step with the otherwise structured aesthetic, as a whole the brand did a fantastic job of making crisp, conceptual fashion both attainable and wearable for S/S 13.—Nina Stotler
Silhouette: Oversized / Round & asymmetric / Boxy & straight
Color: Flat pebble grey / Emerald / White / Light olive / Black / Aqua / Safety orange / Silvery grey
Key Items: Pieced leather jackets & coats / Fluid tapered trousers / Sheer layered sheath dresses / Asymmetric wrap skirts / Leather vests / Sliced sheath dresses / Convertible coats / Woven baseball jackets / Mesh tops & skirts / Matched sets
Materials: Smooth leather / Draped silk / Embroidered chiffon / Openweave kits / Shantung silk / Sheer chiffon / Spongy woven mesh
Print + Pattern: Grids / Diagonal stripes / Graphic houndstooth
Details + Trim: Asymmetry / Self belts / Raw epaulettes / Cutouts / Laminated straps / Strong shoulders / Zippers
Accessories + Footwear: Angular peep-toe heels / Woven clutches / Perforated peep-toe booties / Oversize bowling bags
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