May 07, 2018 | By Lizzy Bowring
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Sophia Kokosalaki managed to hit all the right notes this season while maintaining her own identity. She referenced the tribal trend with Native American-inspired leather fringe and beaded appliqués on vests; she included structured lingerie pieces, both standing alone and peeking out from under other garments, and she kept it feminine, working in a predominantly pale palette with crinkled silks and chiffons. Her deft hand at fabric manipulation brought a certain sophistication to the items, leaving them feeling delicate and strong at the same time. Kokosalaki’s signature drapery looked especially fresh on a criss-cross wrapped matte top and a silvery crepe full skirt. Evening looks delivered subtle glamour; in one case, beading and embroidery combined to create a distressed look overlaid with webby chiffon. Platform gladiator sandals, a perfect complement, grounded the looks and referenced the designer’s Greek heritage. At the finale, a thorny black bramble motif appeared on sheer white dresses, giving a slightly darker undertone to the overall lightness of the collection.
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