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Sophia Kokosalaki

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HARD & SOFT
Paris: Known for her elegant Grecian dresses, Sophia Kokosalaki has been trying to expand her repertoire to more tailored separates in the past few years. Instead of keeping those two elements separate for fall, she wisely used her drapery skills to build soft, fitted structures. Inspired by the natural rolling landscape of her native Greece, Kokosalaki worked supple wovens into fluid cascades and seashell-shaped gathers, warmed with a golden autumnal palette. With all the earthy and rustic references, the underlying cosmopolitan sensibility of her clothes prevailed — dressed-up equestrian jodhpurs, sweater jackets with Berber-like textures and lamé jumpsuits presented versatile options that would work no matter the time or place. Kokosalaki’s signature draped dresses came in a swirl of ochre-tinted jersey and chiffon and an array of knee-length frocks with harlequin-diamond cutouts. For the finale, dresses featured a more futuristic approach, with Paco Rabanne-like metal overlays and undulating plaits made from what looked like telephone cords, suggesting Space Age macramé. Although the experiment didn’t exactly work, there were enough strong pieces anchoring the collection to allow the designer to indulge a bit.
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