May 23, 2019 | By Alice Gividen
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Paris: Today was a momentous occasion for Sonia Rykiel, with the debut collection from new creative director Geraldo da Conceicao, who has worked at Miu Miu, Yves Saint Laurent and, most recently, Louis Vuitton. Rykiel tasked da Conceicao with the “creative relaunch of the women’s ready-to-wear and accessories collections,” in a bid to strengthen the brand’s expansion into Asia (last year Sonia Rykiel was acquired by Hong Kong investors Victor and William Fung, with the Rykiel family retaining a 20 percent stake). How did this translate on the runway? A somewhat subdued take on the Rykiel house codes, which included knit separates, Chanel-tinged scoop-neck suits, contrast trims and patch pockets, lingerie elements and Rykiels’s signature coquettish-meets-ladylike demeanor. Slim, pliable jersey outfits and little angora dresses would easily take one from la boulangerie to Le Baron, but the theatrical follies Rykiel has become known for were cooled down and streamlined, with a smoke-veiled concrete runway and makeup-free models with un-done hair emphasizing Conceicao’s less-frills take on things.—Natalie Shukur
Silhouette: Tailored / Ladylike / Slim / Collar-less
Color: Black / White / Navy / Fawn / Red / Shades of gray—from mist to smoke / Baby pink / Rose / Earth / Duck egg blue / Ice blue
Key Items: Scoop-neck suits / Shift dresses / Collar-less coats with applique pockets / Skinny pants / leather cape-coats / Knit separates / Fur coats / Cardigans / Blazer coats / Shirt dresses / Sheer dresses / Slip dresses / Embroidered sweaters / Leather pants
Materials: Jersey / Leather / Fur / Wool knits / Silk / Angora / Organza
Print + Pattern: Color block / Geometric shapes / Abstract florals / painterly florals / Stripes / Geometric gradients / Feather print / Zig-zags
Details + Trim: Contrast fabric-covered buttons & trim / Fringed applique fabric / Patch pockets / Spaghetti straps / Off-the-shoulder necklines / Mini bowtie and petal applique / Sheer organza panels / Ruffles
Accessories + Footwear: Open-toe leather pumps & boots / Pointy pumps / Ankle-strap sandals with fur trim / Embroidered knee socks / Legwarmers / Leather calf bands / Leather satchels & Clutches / Box-frame bags / Sunglasses / Brooches
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