May 10, 2017 | By Carlene Thomas Bailey
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New York: Geraldo da Conceicao will present his first collection as Artistic Director of Sonia Rykiel for F/W 13, and followers of the label anxiously anticipate how he will interpret its signature elements. In the meantime, the Rykiel design team is in charge, and it seems the label is in able hands. Their Pre-Fall offering demonstrated that they have quite a handle on the Rykiel vocabulary, confidently wielding the signature stripes and conversationals to great effect. There were also exceptional knits; an oversized rust-colored sweater was a highlight. The team included tweeds and tailored separates, adding a borrowed-from-the-boys element. Fur was manipulated in a variety of ways, including knitting, dyeing, and double facing, making for some standout coats. Da Conceicao is fortunate to have such a capable team at his disposal. It will be exciting to see what they come up with for Fall.–Joanna Manganaro
Silhouette: A-line / Roomy / Tent / Boxy on top
Color: Black / White / Poppy / True red / Navy / Burgundy / Anthracite / Beige / Rust / Charcoal / Amber
Key Items: Striped sweaters / Slouchy sweater / Wide-leg trousers / Fur coats / Slim pant suit
Materials: Tweed / Printed CDC / Fine- and medium-gauge yarns / Melange yarns / Angora yarns / Fluid silks / Cotton eyelet / Fur
Print + Pattern: Narrow, wide, and irregular stripes / Conversational floral print
Details + Trim: Pleats / Gathering / Contrast trim / Plunging necklines
Accessories + Footwear: Pendant necklaces / Chain and jewel chokers / Chain and jewel belts / Double buckle belts / Frame bags / Oversized lady bags / Sculptural booties / Pointy-toe pumps
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