May 23, 2019 | By Alice Gividen
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THE SOFT SURREALIST
Paris: Sonia Rykiel started Pre-Fall with surrealism, channeling the twisted humor of the movement into dimensional patterns and soft focus separates. Hallucinatory swirls and graphics gave texture to simple overcoats and floaty dresses, producing a blurred effect for brushed cashmere and sheer chiffon. The surrealist elements didn’t stop there, extending into unusual color combinations like cinnamon and coral as well as the label’s signature lip graphic, a shape echoed by wavy leather corset belts and curving hemlines. As expected, knits were key, in particular several cardigan twinsets in sage and cherry whose oversize fits signaled a new silhouette for Rykiel. Although most of the collection was best suited to daytime, a few little black dresses stood out due to slashes of mirror embroidery or clusters of enamel bird pins.—Nina Stotler
Silhouette: Slim / Long / Relaxed
Color: Oxblood / Sage / Forest green / Dove grey / Olive / Black / White / Cranberry / Peach / Cinnamon / Lemon / Camel / Cream / Cherry red / Coral / Cobalt
Key Items: Tuxedo pants / Army parkas / Long sleeved knit dresses / Silk blouses / Patched wool overcoats / Fur vests / Slim trousers / Dimensional print overcoats / Relaxed suiting / Oversized cardigans / Pleated mid-calf skirts / Crewneck knits / Skirt suits
Materials: Intarsia knits / Silk / Chiffon / Wool / Cashmere / Fur / Persian lamb / Silk georgette
Print + Pattern: Lip graphics / Stripes / Colorblocking / Abstract dots / Checks
Details + Trim: Pleating / Fringe / Fur collars / Contrast piping / Cutouts / Bows
Accessories + Footwear: Wide leather belts / Boxy handbags / Lace-up loafers / Enamel bangle bracelets / Chunky-heeled pumps / Fuzzy wide-brimmed hats / Patent leather bowling bags / Crocodile purse belts / Animal brooches / Miniature box bags / Slip-on bow loafers / Crocodile mid-calf boots
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