Soldier Boy

New York…3.1 Phillip Lim

Each season, Phillip Lim continues to fine-tune his small men’s collection, hopefully making his ideal man more than just arm candy for his sought-after woman. Following many other F/W 09 collections that had visions of “soft meets hard,” Lim’s seasonal message was maintaining a boyish innocence while keeping an eye cautiously open to the changing world. Classic lace-up shoes were completely covered in studs (who knows where you’ll have to walk next?), and some of the woven shirts had stud-adorned collars. A cropped double-breasted tuxedo in a flesh tone came styled with “kick ass” motorcycle leather gloves, while a leather vest was paired with a pilot’s cap and knits pants (airplane mechanic?). The tonal jacquard biker jacket was one of the standout pieces, almost encouraging attention on Lim’s tough, scary streets. The collection is always boyish at heart, but that naivety the muse experiences each season seems to diminish bit by bit every time, perhaps reflecting Lim’s actual experience in the industry.


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