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Single color and exaggerated proportions at Comme des Garçons

Paris: Rei Kawakubo presented a collection of abstract, weird and wonderful creations for Spring/Summer. Bio forms – not dissimilar to an Ernesto Neto sculpture – were shown in layered pieces. Elsewhere elliptical splices formed 3-D segments that cocooned the model whilst also flashing a lot of leg. Vinyl was manipulated into folds, creases and ruffles – lending a sculptural quality to these oversized silhouettes. A carrot leg dungaree was enlarged to such proportions that it appeared clown-like, particularly with one leg in suspended barrels. There were trend-relevant references though, as lace, frills and sports-style bomber jackets were all shown. –Elle Hankinson

Silhouette: Cocoon / Abstract

Key items: Garment pattern leather coat / Ruched and layered bandage dress / Panel cape / Streamer long-line bomber coat

Colour: Scarlet

Print & Pattern: Paint splatter print / 3-D rose embellishment / Streamers

Materials & Knits: Quilted silk / Silk georgette / Vinyl / Wool blends / Lace / Netting

Footwear: Perforated wellington boots / Perforated leather ankle boots / Patent ankle boots / Perforated leather jazz shoes

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