Dec 06, 2018 | By Quentin Humphrey
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One of Paris’ most buzzed-about new restaurants, Septime is setting foodies afire with its comforting blend of seasonal fare and simple surroundings, both still rarities on the city’s fine dining scene.
At Septime, there are no frills anywhere except on your plate. The tables and chairs are made of plain wood in a Scandinavian design, the plates are white, and there is a definite absence of tablecloths. Service is affable yet polished: the handsome waitstaff will actually joke with customers, and there is none of the pretension or attitude found in so many other Paris establishments.
Owner, head chef and local boy done good Bertrand Grébaut has never trained anywhere but France, but the influence of California cuisine is evident in his farm-to-table, totally seasonal, produce-driven dishes such as duck with pickled yellow beets and soft onions, hake with carrots and zucchini and a perfectly poached egg sprinkled with corn and breadcrumbs that is one of the menu’s standout appetizers.
Chef Grébaut’s focus on crafting exquisitely modern French fare began at the famed, three Michelin-starred L’Arpège. He then opened his first restaurant, Agapé, at the impressive age of 27, securing his own Michelin star there. After winning a 10,000€ grant from Evian-Badoit, Grébaut opened Septime this summer, hoping to “democratize” haute cuisine. With a five-course tasting menu that’s just 55€, he seems to be doing just that.
80 rue de Charonne 75011, Paris
Closed Sunday/Monday, Saturday lunch
Septime will be closed August 5-23
xx Ashley Churchill
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