A collection full of innovation and contrasts that is the designer’s best yet. WGSN Catwalks Director Lizzy Bowring reports
London: There was no surprise Simone Rocha’s collection would be her best yet – undoubtedly, this designer continues to impress each season and this one was no exception. Rocha was inspired by a recent trip to Kyoto and the result was a lineup full of innovative texture and contrasts.
Clear plastic macramé tops and bondage ties (that, incidentally, were done by hand), accompanied woven ropes that crisscrossed sparkling organza dresses and cloque full circle skirts, which were adorned with scattered crystals. The “rope” treatments also came through as patterning on sheer olive dresses while Kimono printed sheaths were balanced with puff sleeves – a treatment held throughout.
However, it was the wide ties wrapping around the neck, arms and bare backs of whisper weight silk floral-print dresses, ending in soft bows that begged notice. Rochas said she was thinking of a “hyper-modern femininity”, the idea of which came through in the boxy, cropped Neoprene dresses that appeared almost sculpted with enlarged bows and patch pockets on shoulders and hips. Rocha’s captivating collection embodied all the right elements – sexuality, and femininity bound together with innovative techniques and attentive moments of quirkiness.
Theme: Soft bondage.
Key Items: Macramé plastic tops, kimono sheaths, puffed sleeved dresses, full skirts, empire line dresses.
Colour: Pink, black, white, olive, sepia.
Print and Pattern: Stylised chrysanthemums, photographic bamboo foliage, vintage kimono prints.
Trims and Materials: Lace, silk organza, cotton jacquard, neoprene, plastic tubing, crystals, 3-D embellishment,
Footwear and Accessories: Plastic lace-up flats, lace up brogues, large Crystal glass earrings, metallic thread hose, plastic bracelets.
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