May 10, 2017 | By Carlene Thomas Bailey
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GRANDMOTHER KNOWS BEST
London: Emerging designer Simone Rocha has accomplished a lot with her traditionalist spin on youth over the past few seasons, working both conventional and synthetic fabrics into a new type of demure rebellion. F/W 13 found her tackling the concept of heritage, specifically her own family tree via a tribute to her grandmothers, whose Irish and Chinese backgrounds converged into a lovely presentation of bubble gum pinks, cream, nude and lemon yellow. Throughout the collection Rocha kept the shapes classic—drop waist dresses, ladylike coats and matched sets with high necklines, but her spongy wools, shiny patent leather, metallic tweed and chunky leopard print faux-furs were anything but. Details and accessories became witty parodies of antiquated hand-me-downs, including net headpieces, crochet cat eye frames, velvet brogues, bustles and knit appliqué chest embellishments. Kooky yet cool, Rocha’s look back for Fall propelled her novel aesthetic forward.—Nina Stotler
Silhouette: Gentle a-line / Boxy / Fitted waist / Asymmetric / Full skirted
Color: Bubblegum pink / Black / Cream / Lemon / Nude / Pale pastel pink
Key Items: Dropped waist dresses / Boxy jackets / Layered apron front skirts / Bustiers / Simple straight skirts / Faux-fur tops / Ladylike coats / Cropped wide leg trousers
Materials: Tinsel tweed / Faux fur / Crinoline / Spongy wool / Floral dot mesh / Patent leather / PVC / Crisp cotton
Print + Pattern: Floral motif
Details + Trim: Bustles / Apron fronts / Leopard collars / Knit embroidery / Gathering / Pleating
Accessories + Footwear: Pastel molded loafers, platform ankle boots and oxfords / Velvet loafers / Gold glitter brogues / Exaggerated cat eye frames in crochet knit / Velvet bow headpieces with netting / Slim leather handbags / Sheer net gloves / Faux fur clutches / Knit chokers
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