May 23, 2019 | By Alice Gividen
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Milan: Although showing for the first time at Milan Fashion Week, Silvio Betterelli has been designing for nearly a decade, picking up some impressive accolades along the way, notably a nod from Who Is On Next in 2007. Though his conceptual work has yet to be recognized by a wider audience, this solid, thoroughly intriguing debut shows he may be finally headed in the right direction. Nature seemed to be the driving force behind the collection on various levels. The designs possessed an organic, free-form quality, with fabric tucked into random volumes and draped into shell-like waves and undulating cascades. The nature theme also encompassed the ocean-inspired palette of sea foam, oyster and sand-colored cork prints. Sketchy crosshatches were another recurring motif, used to “shade” receding areas and mark off style lines, giving the clothes the look of muslin prototypes. The unfinished quality continued with seams tacked together at scattered points, with draped sections literally hanging on by a thread. Although at times the collection seemed to be more about concept than clothes, straightforward pieces, like a wrapped T-shirt dress and a three-piece suit cut into offbeat but appealing proportions, showed just how good Betterelli when he channels his concepts in a more wearable way.
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