Feb 15, 2019 | By Cassandra Napoli
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Known for his mix of leather and fur, Owens remained consistent with his signature style for F/W 09 with a color palette that evolved from his standard deep black. “It started off dark. But then…they blossomed into swans,” he says of his design evolution. In layers of leather mixed with satin tunics and ribbed leggings, his jackets were the stand-out pieces of the collection. Felted wool was pieced together into geological forms on jackets, creating an irregular pattern reminiscent of crystal formations. Sweeping across the body with a closure at one shoulder, they swung open to reveal a leather mini skirt and silk top. Cropped leather jackets had a sci-fi feel, trimmed in wool that created a “wing” off to one side. Molded shoulders created a pronounced silhouette with a hemline that sat away from the body. A pale grey version was layered over a trilogy of layers comprised of a tunic top, dresses and skirt. High collared “chemist” coats unzipped in an asymmetrical line, revealing a satin-trimmed shift dress in a contrast metallic. Mink and goat fur trimmed headdresses and platform boots created a unique look fit for a new generation of alchemists.
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