Jan 17, 2018 | By Samuel Trotman
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Each season, Copenhagen and Stockholm host inspirational fashion weeks in Scandinavia. Over the past two weeks the Nordic runways have come alive with edgy upcoming labels alongside the regions more internationally recognized brands. Known for their unique take on denim design, which marries sharp Scandinavian aesthetic with clean color schemes, both cities are seeing an increase in international buyer attendance as well as media coverage. Here, Stylesight highlights the key denim looks to emerge from the F/W 13 shows.
For F/W 13, The Local Firm’s Richard Hutchinson and Axel Nyhage looked back to the foundations of the brand and what inspired their first collection: the fall of the Berlin wall in 1989. This moment of liberty and optimism saw the club scene in Berlin take off, and ideas and fashion from East to West blended with each other. Elements of military gear and street fashion collided throughout the collection with side-stripes on black jeans that borrow references from both boarder patrols pants and Adidas track pants from the ravers in early 90s Berlin. “X” symbols highlighted knees, symbolizing freedom, youth and revolt, while a recurring muted grey palette channeled a uniform appeal.
Cheap Monday’s “Artificial Grunge” collection was built on the concept of “the collective memory” of the movement as opposed to the actual grunge lifestyle. Recognized as the last “youth movement”, the designers paid tribute to its rebellious roots with a synthetic approach — creating deliberate inaccurate blueprints of the early 90s style. Clashing the classic with stereotypical style, the collection was conceived through manufactured destruction, slouchy jeans, thift-like sweaters, and 60s style tops all mixed up in a controllable color palette. Bright limes and powder pales gave a contemporary edge while acid washes in hard black tinted reds remained grounded to 90s roots.
As one of Sweden’s original bad boys of breaking the conventions of fashion, Ann-Sofie Back looked to one of her pet-hates — workwear uniforms and practical clothes to inspire her F/W 13 collection. Ann-Sofie looked to ultra-sleek and feminine reworks of carpenter pants and trucker jackets using unexpected silhouettes and synthetic fabrics. Key items like strapless column dresses, trucker skirts, and oversized truckers played with core denim elements like twin-needle stitching, rivets, and brass hardware, while asymmetric openings, elongated lengths and electric pop shades pushed the items forward in an fresh direction.
American sportswear was given a Scandinavian twist at the Wood Wood F/W 13 show. Classic Ivy League elements such as baseball jackets, quilted vests and logo’d sweaters were transformed using playful allover prints, re-worked silhouettes and a cleaned-up and stripped-back attitude. Denim featured in the form of upsized yet cropped trucker jackets and slim pants for girls and matching sets and button-down shirts in tonal indigos for guys. The activewear elements were further cemented in the baseball hat styling, unconventional cuts and paneled pieces throughout.
Another activewear-inspired collection came in the form of Soulland’s midcentury modern runway, inspired by 1900-1960s Japanese baseball, as well as vintage baseball cards and graphics. The collection therefore, combined iconic American sportswear styling and items with a quirky, off-kilter attitude. A fantastic baseball-inspired “Go to Hell” repeat was used throughout the collection, and a neat, 50s trucker style was re-worked in faded pop brights. Ivy League smart-casual styling drove the inspiration behind sports jackets and button-down shirts in clean, saturated colors ranging from rich and bright indigo, through to dark grey, black, and ecru.
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