May 23, 2019 | By Alice Gividen
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GRAPHICS, GRACE & GEOLOGY
London: Following last season’s self-described “traditional modernist” show, Sass & Bide’s F/W 13 collection was another nudge away from the layered, free-spirited gypsy aesthetic the design duo had long favored. The graphic lines, sparse color palette (black, white and elemental grays punctuated with a searing shade of yellow), foiled knits and general sci-fi vibe was inspired by the internal mechanics of man-made objects. Juxtaposed with more earthy elements—wavy lacework and beading that looked like sand dunes or rock formations, delicate paper-like cuts, elaborate neckpieces, and the effortless flowing parachute gowns they have a knack for—evoked a feeling of tribal futurism that is becoming their new signature. —Natalie Shukur
Silhouette: Tailored / Peplum / Structured / Graphic
Color: Black / White / Egg-yolk yellow / Graphite / Mercury
Key Items: Bustier tops / Full, tapered pants / Cape-sleeve bolero jackets / Metallic knits / Cage peplums and corsets / Pannier skirts / Tunic dresses / Gowns with structured tops and flowing skirts / Thigh-split dresses and skirts
Materials: Cotton / Wool / Vinyl / Foiled knits / Silk / Crepe / Satin / Lace / Metal
Print + Pattern: Graphic stripes and chevrons / Houndstooth / Tribal triangles / Waves
Details + Trim: Cape sleeves / Vinyl binding / Funnel necks / Cage details / Ribbed knits / Delicate cut-outs / Pannier hips / Brace details / Neckplates / Folds / Lacework / Beading and paillettes
Accessories + Footwear: Pointy leather pumps in black, yellow and gray—some with ankle guards
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