Jan 10, 2017 | By Lourdes Linares
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Stylesight continues its highlights from the runways collections at the South American Fall/Winter 2014 shows; this week showcasing the key denim looks from Sao Paulo.
As one of São Paulo’s most recognized designers Ellus consistently provides directional collections season-on-season. For fall, denim provided a foundation for much of the collection appearing in a variety of tones and textures. Glossy raw indigos gave a polished appearance to utility items like boiler suits and bulky parkas with cozy shearling linings and pony skin accents adding a tactile finish. Women’s items took a more conceptual approach to the workwear theme with rigid denims providing structure form for utility dresses and sleeveless jacket shapes.
Brazilian fashion label, Colcci, delivered a range of sleek denim styles and silhouettes inspired by sportswear and urban looks from the `90s. Both men’s and women’s items combined grungy plaids and bold stripes alongside beautiful dark subdued tones to create a more sophisticated and smartened take on the era. Clean tailoring lent a modern feel to items like A line dresses, truckers and men’s 5-pockets, while sportier elements were offered through mid riff revealing crop tops, running shorts and resin coated tanks.
A strong ’70s and ’80s sensibility drove the inspiration for Amapo’s collection this fall with the designers Dear Gold and Pitty Taliani looking to the iconic styling of each era to inspire their new seasons offering. A retro attitude was noted through flares and vintage trucker shapes in a striking palette of rich and glossy indigo shades with rich tobacco stitching nodding to classic ’70s style. One particular highlight was a matching set that combined digital printed lace patterns and leather trims. Meanwhile, biker elements on jacket and pants as well as highwaisted mom fits referenced the more brash styling of the ’80s.
Cavalera went for an eclectic workwear approach to their F/W 14 collection. Featured were both men and women’s separates in utilitarian cuts. Rolled up workwear pants with a lightweight ‘skirt’ overlay channeled a contemporary mood for mens. Meanwhile the black trucker jacket and short sleeve shirt and minimal boiler suit injected a traditional denim attitude. For women there was a diverse kaleidoscope of embellished opulent fabrics with beaded surfaces held together by denim binding. Styled with a woolen plaid jacket added a winter element to the collection.
Creative director of Triton, Karen Fuke designed a youthful collection that had an expedition undertone for F/W 14. Both men and women’s separates were featured with women’s taking on a romantic mood. Poetic writing combined with roses printed on denim, worn over ripped skinnies and floaty sheath dresses gave an edgy and slight gothic sensibility. For men there was a far more practical and geeky approach. Bright accent colors, mountaineering accessories and functional details delivered an outdoorsy story. A sporty jacket combined with matching bottoms in glossy, compact and unwashed denim was a stand out piece of the collection.
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