Salvatore Ferragamo


Milan: In his debut for the women’s line, Salvatore Ferragamo’s menswear designer, Massimiliano Giornetti, wisely chose to play it safe and return the label back to its luxury-goods roots. The show opened with a video homage to iconic clients of the past, including Marilyn Monroe, Audrey Hepburn and Greta Garbo (coinciding with a Ferragamo-sponsored exhibit celebrating Garbo’s style, now at Milan’s Triannale). The tailored figure of Greta Garbo in the 30s proved to be the the perfect muse for the menswear designer, translating into mannish blazers and waistcoats, with pegged pants and feminine bow blouses giving the looks a modern-day Annie Hall vibe. Shorts were a key refrain, offered in Harris tweed or leather, with pleated fronts and cuffs. Shrunken cable knit sweaters and prairie skirts further reasserted the house’s equestrian and 70s sensibilities, as did an earthy palette of rich autumnals. Giornetti took some risks at the end of the show by introducing separates and gowns in shimmering lamé and sequins, but the showy pieces provided an effective counterbalance to the practical tendencies of the collection and revealed a promising affinity for womenswear for the new designer.
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