May 10, 2017 | By Carlene Thomas Bailey
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STRICT VERSUS SOFT
Milan: Salvatore Ferragamo’s Fall collection veered back and forth between two directions; Russian-inspired military tailoring to a feminine gypsy peasant clad in sheer layers and tonal paisley prints. By the middle of the presentation, the masterfully fitted menswear, including pinstriped suiting, double-breasted blazers and this season’s must-have, long capes, disappeared completely. The color palette also expanded, shifting from all-black looks to rich teal, plum and cherry. Unfortunately the clean brass-button peacoats and form-fitting skirts were sorely missed, replaced wholesale by off-the-shoulder silk peasant blouses and gilt edged full skirts, items which were neither flattering nor modern. Despite beautiful foiled lace and embroidered velvet, designer Massimiliano Giornetti’s intended contrast between strict uniform silhouettes and delicate vulnerability was simply too harsh, and the power of the former overwhelmed the latter.—Nina Stotler
Silhouette: Fitted / Slim / Full
Color: Black / Teal / Grey / Stone / Silver / Gunmetal / Rich chocolate / Army green / Plum / Pumpkin / Cherry
Key Items: Double-breasted jackets / Embroidered knit tops / Jodphurs / Leather pencil skirts / Intarsia knit jackets / Capes / Sheer peasant blouses / Slim cropped trousers / Full lace skirts / Military coats
Materials: Leather / Fur / Cashmere / Velvet / Intarsia knits / Chiffon / Astrakhan / Brocade / Lace
Print + Pattern: Pinstripes / Paisley
Details + Trim: Brass buttons / Leather lapels / Metallic embroidery / Contrast trim / Pleats / Draping / Ties / Gathering / Epaulettes
Accessories + Footwear: Wide leather belts / Knee-high boots / Choker necklaces / Cross-body bags / Beaded pumps / Hard clutches / Lace-up stilettos/ Drop earrings / Velvet shoulder bags
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