Jan 17, 2017 | By WGSN Insider
Snow, champagne, a miniature of Iceland, random (boisterous) catwalk shows every hour, exquisite lingerie. This must be Paris – the renown trade show Salon International de la Lingerie, to be specific.
We are busily building a comprehensive wrap on Salon at the moment, but in the meantime, here are a few highlights from yet another superlative show.
Designer we were most excited to see: Araks
New York Fashion Week favorite Araks presented their lingerie collection for the first time in several years at the show. Exhibiting the most forward color palette of the season and a rich mix of washed silks, cotton and linen, these pioneers of the soft lingerie movement showed why they are always ahead of the curve.
Sexiest collection: Lost in Wonderland
We suspect Scarlett of Lost in Wonderland was something of an architect in her former life. The fall collection is composed of mind-boggling lines that meander through and bisect the body in the most tantalizing ways possible. It’s sexy and edgy, while maintaining the utmost sophistication.
New best in show: Monette
Wow. We have a new favorite collection. We don’t know much about Monette, except that this is its second season, and the designer is formerly of Princesse tam.tam. The colors and fabrics are gorgeous. These are pieces that beg to be shown off. Look for more in our trade show report.
Finest craftsmanship: Elise Anderegg
For F/W 2013, Elise Anderegg worked with a master embroiderer to create one-of-a-kind pieces of lace-encrusted loveliness. This is as close to couture as intimate apparel gets.
Best styling: Pluto on the Moon
This is the kind of laid-back chic every loungewear brand aspires to be. The relaxed separates in jersey, fleece and lightweight cottons are thoughtfully made to mix ‘n’ match. The roots are folkloric and boho, but Grunge-y styling gives it an urban cool that keeps it from being overly crunchy and romantic.
Funnest collection: Kookai
Laces patterned with the streets of Paris, tuxedo details and brilliant color made for one of the best Juniors/Contemporary collections of the season.
Best concept: Emilio Cavallini
For F/W 2013, the venerated Italian hosiery designer drew inspiration from artist Vanessa Beecroft’s compelling studies of the female form. It was a genius pairing that produced some of the most striking images of the fair.
Best men’s loungewear: Blue Lemon
For menswear, it is often boils down to the details. Blue Lemon managed to breathe new life into old favorites – dorm pants, sweats, Henleys – with contemporary cuts and touches of whimsy, such as contrast facings and printed drawstrings.
Best underwear: Zimmerli
Zimmerli are purveyors of some of the most luxurious basics on the market for men and women. This season, the lines were sleek and minimalist and the fabrics softer and lighter than ever. So timeless, but incredibly now.
Most surreal moment: Stepping into the Sweet Box designed by Stella Cadente
To celebrate its 50 years, the organizers set up a number of special exhibits throughout the venue. In a show full of random, surprising moments, the “Sweet Box” section created by lingerie designer Stella Cadente had to be the most surreal. The black-lit panty room above was flanked by a padded room of stockinged legs and one with blue ribbons hanging from the ceiling. How will they top this next season?
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