1 hour ago | By Nigel Taylor
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Paris: Hedi Slimane’s first Saint Laurent womenswear collection was hotly anticipated following his takeover of YSL, relocation of the design studio to Los Angeles and subsequent re-branding. But despite the move, no one predicted the retro and bohemian direction he took for Spring, a rock and roll 70s Stevie Nicks redux relying heavily on some of YSL’s greatest hits. There were nipped waist jackets of both the tuxedo and motorcycle variety paired with Slimane’s signature skinny pant, as well as chiffon bow blouses and airy tiered peasant dresses cinched with corset belts. Floor-length leather cowboy skirts similar to those introduced by Olivier Rousteing at Balmain last season were one of the standout pieces as were sharp capes. Although it was an unexpected turn for such a forward-thinking designer, Slimane’s free spirit took her bohemian aesthetic seriously—a refreshing attitude adjustment for this oft-explored trend. —Nina Stotler
Silhouette: Skinny / Fit & flare / Long & voluminous
Color: Black / White / Coco / Crimson / Blush nudes / Gold
Key Items: Strong shoulder blazers / Boho peasant dresses / Suede fringe jackets / Ruffled lace dresses / Capes / Floor-length skirts / Chiffon blouses / Skinny trousers / Leather moto jackets / Nipped waist tuxedo jackets
Materials: Chiffon / Brocade / Suede / Smooth stretch leather / Tulle / Lace / Macramé / Lurex / Fur / Sheer silk
Print + Pattern: Leopard print / Zig-zag stripes / Florals
Details + Trim: Sharp shoulders / Lacing / Sequins / Sheer sleeves / Contrast piping / Fringe / Tuxedo bibs / Trains / Ruffles / Brass buttons / Feathers
Accessories + Footwear: Wide brim fedora hats / Platform mary-janes / Pointy platform pumps / Skinny leather belts / Tassel pendant necklaces / Bow scarves / Corset belts (some with nail head studs / Stacked metal bangle bracelets / Long leather gloves
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