Oct 16, 2018 | By Nigel Taylor
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Mar 01, 2017
Anthony Vaccarello returned to the Saint Laurent runway late Tuesday with a continuation of his sexed-up interpretation of the luxury label. And it was an interpretation that many critics felt was more confident than his debut collection for SS17.
Last month owner Kering said Saint Laurent revenues rose 11.3% on a comparable basis in Q4 so Vaccarello’s first collection, in-store now, has a lot to live up to. This second collection piles on the pressure even further.
How did he do? Partly continuing Hedi Slimane’s new and wildly successful vision for the brand by not being over-reverential, but also revamping signature YSL styles and stamping his own signature on them, Vaccarello showed in the label’s half-built HQ, surrounded by scaffolding.
The wider audience seemed happy too as the show was instagrammed and given plenty of likes all over social media very quickly.
But that didn’t detract from the overall luxe edge and in the presence of Saint Laurent’s partner Pierre Bergé (who seemed to give it the thumbs-up), the audience seemed to feel that Vaccarello is getting it right.
The critics at least were upbeat. Instyle called it “a new and refined take on 1980s fashion” while The Guardian talked of “confident sexuality” and The South China Morning Post said he “proved he is up to the job of leading the French fashion house”. Meanwhile Vogue Runway also focused on confidence in interpreting YSL signature style for today and said: “the past is here but the past is also gone, the present is all that really matters”.
What that all meant in practice was shorter-than-short dresses, many in leather, asymmetric and exaggerated shoulderlines, ruching and frills, creatively-cut shearling, some slouchy boots that could have had ‘high street’ written all over them, and plenty of trouser-based day and after-dark options – whether covered in crystals or comprising shearling biker jackets and fuzzy texture sweaters.
Confident it certainly was and a lot more wearable than it might have seemed at first glance. Bergé may have been pleased but it looks like Kering’s management will be too.
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