Oct 16, 2018 | By Nigel Taylor
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Paris: Baby doll dresses, slouchy cardigans, combat boots, and plaid flannels. It was a 90s moment at Saint Laurent. Though designer Hedi Slimane’s menswear collection for the label hinted at this new direction, it still felt like whiplash-inducing departure from last season’s covered-up seventies looks. It was a decidedly more youthful offering, but it embodied the rock-and-roll element that characterizes all of Slimane’s work. It was almost as if one was observing the halls of a high school during the decade; different personas appeared during the show. There was the black-clad goth chick, the leather-loving rocker, the stoner in slouchy layers and plaids, and the good girl in ditsy florals and tailored separates. On first glance, clients of pre-Slimane Yves Saint Laurent may feel bewildered by how young the collection skewed. But though it seems clear that the designer is bent on separating his work from the label’s past, his offering was impressively diverse. Long-time fans will be drawn to the tailored jackets and coats, and new followers will dig the grunge references. –Joanna Manganaro
Silhouette: Slouchy layers / Long and lean / Body-con / Empire waist / Oversized / Boxy / Tent
Color: Black / Red / Gold / Pale blue / White / Mustard / Rust / Warm brown / Blush / Peach / Royal blue / Taupe
Key Items: Baby doll dresses / Slouchy cardigans / Leather miniskirts / Tailored jackets / Flannel button-up shirts / Leather motorcycle jackets
Materials: Blanket wools / Lamé jacquard / Lightweight silks / Mohair yarns / Menswear suitings / Mesh / Glittering tulle / Slick leather / Plaid flannel / Sumptuous fur / Pieced fur / Lace / Shearling / Denim
Print + Pattern: Ditsy florals / Menswear-inspired pinstripes and checks / Stars / Grunge plaids
Details + Trim: Empire waists / Peter pan collars / Bow appliqués / Zippers / Leather straps / Veiling / Ruffle necks / Sheer panels / Toggle closures / Self-belts / Beading / Fringe trim / Jewels
Accessories + Footwear: Pearl necklaces / Knit scarves / Skinny belts / Jeweled belts / Fishnet tights / Dotted or jewel-embellished tights / Lace-up combat boots / Strappy combat boots
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