Saint Laurent

Paris: Hedi Slimane triumphantly returned to Men’s runways under the famously-renamed Saint Laurent label, showing a parade of expertly-executed prep-rocker looks that somehow looked utterly fresh while staying true to the ultra-slim vision he’d released on the world a decade ago. Slim trousers, mostly denim or leather, were the building blocks of the collection, especially as they expertly segued into motorcycle boots so slim they bordered on winklepickers. Tops were oversized, and often chunky, with an especially rich selection of sweaters and cardigans. Slimane’s prep staple duffel coats and Nordic intarsias shown on top of shredded, rocker slim denim, evoked the most romantic of prep school rebels, while tongue-in-check jokes like a Cruella de Vil-style “Dalmatian” kept the collection from seeming overly cool. If this return is any indication, Slimane is again proving himself a visionary designer with an uncanny knack for funneling the zeitgeist into carefully-considered if easy-wearing looks. —Andrew Luecke

Silhouette: Textured slim

Color: Scarlet / Jet black / Optic white / Camel / Granite grey / Olive / Cream

Key Items: Suede and shearling hooded overcoat / Leather motorcycle trousers / Tartan Eisenhower jacket / Camel duffel coat / Cropped varsity jacket / Oversized cardigans and sweaters / Leather pea coat / Sequin blazer

Materials: Leather / Denim / Fur / Suede / Shearling

Print + Pattern: Red or snow leopard / Tartan / “Dalmatian” / Paisley / Gold floral embroidery / Prince of Wales check / Nordic intarsias / Nautical stripes / Pinstripes

Details + Trim: Studs / Artisanal rips and tears / Leather shawl lapel / “Haring-style” doodles / Hanging chains / Fringe

Accessories + Footwear: Overlong scarves / Skinny studded belts / Chain bracelet / Chain rings / Slim motorcycle boots


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