Sacai the new coat-to-go for A/W 15/16

Paris: Chitose Abe’s talent of creating garments that are entirely unique and timeless hybrid designs fused with the right amount of femininity granted the brand many admirers. For Autumn / Winter the designer worked menswear silhouettes and cinched them down to a woman’s body. Shoulders were dropped, sleeves either extended or abbreviated, with lavish fur peek-a-boo spending warmth on collars, cuffs, and sleeves or underlined quilting. The play with proportion and the art of merging and transforming classic garments have always been one of Sacai’s signature feature. And so she did this season – Biker jackets were deconstructed and worked with cable knit, leather, bonded knit, wool and fur. Sweaters received a make over by splicing cotton poplin shirts into roomy knitwear sweaters. Beside all outerwear the collection also sported white pleated wrap dresses gathered with passementerie adorned straps in order to offer something for underneath. As the new go-to-coat label for next season, we are already looking forward to next winter. – Christa Kaufmann

Theme: Menswear silhouettes cinched down to a women’s body

Key Items: Shrunken mens coat / Car coat / Fur lined parka / Fur patched gilet / Leather parka with macramé fringe / Leather blouson / Knit leather biker / Pleated skirt / Fair isle knit skirt set / Flounce knit dress / Hybrid knit-shirtdress / Shirtdress / Pieced knitdress / Cable knit tube skirt

Colours: Petrol green / Black / Dark brown / Cognac / Yellow / Tangerine red / Navy / Ivory / Fucsia

Materials and Trims: Wool / Fur / Silk / Chiffon / Leather / Knit / Bonded knit / Tweed / Herringbone tweed / Cotton poplin

Print and Pattern: Fair isle / Windowpane check / Blanket stripe / Dissected stripes

Footwear and Accessories: Chunky platform creeper with over-knee socks

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