Paris: The outerwear category has seen a lot of action on the runway this season, as designers put more thought and effort into statement coats and jackets as the focal point of Fall collections. Coats doubling as dresses have been particularly popular and Chitose Abe cemented the importance of this must-have with her Sacai presentation. From mixed velvet and twill trenches to knee-length flight jackets, windowpane check overcoats with skirt backs or motorcycle jacket gowns, the options were delightful and revitalized. Beyond these significant pieces, Abe offered plenty of her signature pleated skirts as well as pencil silhouettes edged in contrast lace and took a new look at knits with zebra stripe intarsia sweaters trimmed in a wild yarn fringe. Ski influences turned up notable ideas too, including shiny puffer jackets with dimensional fur peplums and sharp Fair Isle cardigans over stretchy bootcut trousers, each piece as useful as it was inventive.—Nina Stotler

Silhouette: Lean a-line / Relaxed / Fitted / Slim / Fit & flare

Color: Clay / Navy / Black / Military olive / Cream / Warm blush nudes / Evergreen / Coral / Burgundy / Sage

Key Items: Hybrid trench coat dresses / Pleated a-line skirts with pockets / Cable knit sweaters / Slim trousers / Lace dresses with checked panels / Fringed intarsia knit tops / Puffer jackets trimmed in fur / Moto jacket gowns / Pencil skirts / Full satin pants

Materials: Velvet / Twill / Sturdy wool / Nylon / Chunky knits / Mongolian lamb fur / Lace / Mink / Satin

Print + Pattern: Colorblocking / Windowpane plaid / Modern Fair Isle / Animal stripes / Cable knit motifs

Details + Trim: Box pleats / Self belts / Feathers / Yarn fringe / Fishtail hems / Contrast collars & sleeves / Flap pockets / Utility zippers / Peplums / Ruffles / Quilting / Nylon panels

Accessories + Footwear: Quilted nylon spats / Ankle boots with metal toes and buckles / Fur frame bags


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