Paris: A newcomer to Paris, Sacai’s Japanese designer Chitose Abe hedged her bets for F/W 12, creating intriguing hybrids that combined a handful of trends via innovative construction. Through savvy layering and deconstruction, Abe brought asymmetric layers and ruffled bustles to military overcoats, motorcycle jackets and pinstriped shirtdresses, creating an appealing mix of masculine and feminine. Flirtatious pleated a-line skirts kept things playful, and much of the clever detailing was found at the back; dresses slit in the rear to reveal lace underskirts, knit crewnecks dissolved into sheer panels and cardigans patterned on one side with diamonds. Abe even found a way to work in some shimmer, resulting in trompe l’oeil sequin bustiers dressing up cotton shirtdresses — a gorgeous finale to this excellent collection.—Nina Stotler

Silhouette: Slim / A-line / Fit-and-flare

Color: Navy / Black / White / Forest green / Fuchsia / Burgundy / Cobalt / Emerald / Stone / Poppy red / Sage / Ice blue / Camel / Dove grey

Key Items: Feminine a-line coats / Pleated miniskirts / Tuxedo jackets / Fur trimmed motorcycle jackets / Cardigans / Shirtdresses / Bomber jackets / Twill dresses / Knit crewnecks / Sweater dresses

Materials: Silk / Fur / Wool / Cotton / Lace / Chiffon / Leather / Twill / Jersey / Cashmere

Print + Pattern: Pinstripes / Paisley / Diamonds

Details + Trim: Pleating / Brass buttons / Epaulettes / Fur trim / Draping / Sheer panels / Paillettes / Zippers / Peplums / Sequins

Accessories + Footwear: Ankle boots / Knee-high stockings


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