Paris: Chitose Abe’s Sacai label has been quietly gaining attention in her native Japan over the past few years and finally made its first showing at Paris Fashion Week a year ago. Since then, the label has been picked up by retailers like Kirna Zabete in New York and Colette in Paris and is acquiring a steadily growing following worldwide. Abe develops all her own fabrics, and so unsurprisingly, they were a highlight. In particular, a soft-focus plaid lent texture to velvet-flocked chiffon, and thick yarns were woven into texture-rich tweeds. Wide satin trim was used for full chiffon skirts, making for an undulating, elegant hemline. Pea coats and Breton stripes added a nautical touch, with capes, lace-up side gussets and open backs updating the look. Hints of red feathers for shoes and trim, as well as paisley prints, were lively and fun, while pared-down separates like flared trousers and cardigans were covetable basics. As she continues to become better known in the West, Abe’s collection is definitely one to watch.

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