May 10, 2017 | By Carlene Thomas Bailey
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MIDNIGHT IN THE GARDEN
Paris: For her latest Rue du Mail collection, Martine Sitbon presented darkly romantic looks in a moody palette of black, navy, purple, and rich browns. Large fabric appliqués depicted orchids and were placed on the bodices of sheaths, woven tops, and boxy jackets. The image of the orchid also appeared for jacquard separates. The zig-zag pattern that recurred throughout the collection evoked the trellises in a garden. The looks grew increasingly glamorous as the show progressed. Luxurious furs appeared in a variety of textures and were used for cropped jackets, collars, sleeves, and a couple of outstanding coats. Velvet was another elegant textural element, and a passage of pieced lamé separates conjured a starry night sky. With approachable silhouettes, interesting embellishments, and luxe materials, Sitbon created her most covetable collection in quite some time. –Joanna Manganaro
Silhouette: Oversized / Long and languid / Easy hourglass / A-line / Extended shoulders / Boxy
Color: Black / White / Warm browns / Rust / Royal purple / Navy / Beige / Charcoal / Lavender / Pumpkin / Brick red / Burgundy / Olive / Peach
Key Items: Oversized fur coats / Sheaths / Lamé separates
Materials: Heavy wool / Lustrous satin / Plush fur / Curly fur / Raw silk / Wool suitings / Mesh / Jacquard / Velvet / Lamé / Salt-and-pepper tweed / Chiffon / Medium-gauge yarns
Print + Pattern: Zig-zags / Chevrons / Orchids / Zebra stripes / Texture patterns
Details + Trim: Orchid appliqués / Piecing / Funnel necks / Extended shoulders / Self-belts / Contrast collars and sleeves
Accessories + Footwear: Velvet belts / Lace-up ankle boots / Ankle-strap boots / Ankle-strap pumps / Sparkly peep-toe heels
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