Oct 05, 2017 | By Carlene Thomas Bailey
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A STITCH APART
Paris: Graphic neutrals and knitting techniques were the starting point for Martine Sitbon’s Fall Rue du Mail collection, ideas that resulted in delicate yet sporty ensembles. Open weave textures and cutouts created organic patterns while abstract stitched panels formed modest bibs on sheer crewneck tops. Simple long-sleeved dresses and knit sheaths had a fitted silhouette and knee-length hems, but details such as dimensional roll necks or wide halters drew attention to the collar rather than the waist. Sitbon expanded into actual prints with silk pieces like bomber jackets and pencil skirts, creating an abstract floral with a camouflage feel, and several diamond color-blocked items mimicked the latticework throughout the collection. Although most of Rue du Mail’s F/W 12 would work for day, subtle touches of sequin embroidery made a few looks appropriate for evening as well.—Nina Stotler
Silhouette: Fitted / Boxy / A-line / Slim / Cropped
Color: Black / White / Navy / Cobalt / Teal / Tangerine / Poppy / Plum
Key Items: Bomber jackets / Skirt suits / Roll neck sheath dresses / Open weave dresses / Swing coats / Sheer crewneck tops / Slim trousers / Cropped jackets / Cardigans / Fluted silk skirts / Halter neck blouses and dresses / Pencil skirts / Long-sleeved silk dresses
Materials: Cashmere / Intarsia knits / Satin / Chiffon / Jersey / Lurex / Wool
Print + Pattern: Dots / Color blocking / Grids / Stripes / Abstract florals / Diamonds
Details + Trim: Roll-necks / Embroidery / Contrast piping / Ring necks / Contrast sleeves / Halter necks / Sequins / Net cutouts
Accessories + Footwear: High-heeled strappy sandals / Opaque hosiery / Loafer pumps / Round-toe pumps / Simple leather belts
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