Rubber Soul

Nicolas Ghesquière struck fashion gold once again with his F/W 08/09 collection for Balenciaga. Last season’s short, structured florals were forsaken for something deeper, darker and more refined. It was a delicate balance of ladylike austerity (jewelry as collars and cuffs!) with futuristic tendencies (liberal use of technical fabrics, neoprene, even rubber) The collection was condensed to only 34 looks, each one even more stunning and unique than the last, a display of Ghesquière’s inherent genius and understanding of exactly where he wants to take this historic label. Architecture had its part to play here too, the cuts elevating a simple black dress into the realm of couture and a grey jacket into a sculptural wonder. Goya-inspired draped velvet tops in a range of vibrant colors look set to launch a thousand copies. Then an about-face for a series of remarkable fetishistic latex dresses painted with Japanese landscapes. Once again, a remarkable collection from this remarkable designer.


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