Sep 21, 2018 | By Alice Gividen
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HUNGRY LIKE A WOLF
Paris: A wholesale resurrection of the 80s has appeared on a number of runways this season, culminating in stretchy bodysuits, wide angular shoulders and a tapered silhouette, as well as primary hued colorblocking and graphic animal prints. Roland Mouret’s F/W 13 had all of these elements and more, his inspiration rooted in Catherine’s Deneuve’s chic vampire character in the early 80s cult classic The Hunger. As such the looks were sharp, sexy and very much of-that-moment—body conscious minidresses in punchy cobalt or cherry colorblocked with black, rectangular menswear coats and trim, serious little pencil skirt suits. Mouret has always known how to flatter a woman’s figure and his legendary “Galaxy” dress is a true archival fashion piece. But for Fall it was his little tricks and textures that stood out, from pebbled jacquard finishes and trompe l’oeil boot trousers to inventive flat peplum folds.—Nina Stotler
Silhouette: Sharp & tailored / Body conscious / Asymmetric / Angular / Tapered / Square
Color: Black / White / Cobalt / Camel / Copper / Satiny chocolate / Pumice / Emerald / Crimson / Cherry / Graphite / Burgundy / Cream
Key Items: Colorblocked cocktail dresses / Tapered, high waist trousers / One-shoulder bodysuits / Angular menswear coats / Deconstructed coat dresses / Printed peplum skirts / Cropped moto jackets with folds / Trompe l’oeil leather trousers / Textured pencil skirt suits
Materials: Leather / Stretch twill / Felted wool / Pebbled jacquard / Heavy satin
Print + Pattern: Colorblocking / Leopard spots / Abstract swirls / Pebble textures
Details + Trim: Choker collars / Stiff peplums / Pleating / Leather bands / Contrast collars / Printed patches / Exposed pockets / Portrait necklines / Contrast sleeves / Leather sleeves / Snaps / Zippers
Accessories + Footwear: Trompe l’oeil boots / Sheer hosiery / Leather clutches / Small oval sunglasses / Two-tone pumps / Folded portfolio cases / Cutout booties
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