Oct 16, 2018 | By Nigel Taylor
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ODE TO THE EIGHTIES
New York: Roland Mouret was remembering Paris in the eighties when designing his Pre-Fall collection. In particular, he had in mind the glamorous women he saw at the Le Palace nightclub, which was the pinnacle of Paris nightlife during the decade. Though elements from the era appeared, the homage was thankfully made in subtle ways. Many jackets featured a slightly sharp shoulder, but there were no exaggerated, padded styles; a jumpsuit was included in the mix, but it was a chic, tailored version. Mouret employed bonded wool to create many of his covetable separates, and the firm material made for looks with a sense of buoyancy. Speaking of materials, lamé, an essential eighties fabric, was used for evening in the most sophisticated ways; the best of which was a long-sleeved pewter striated lamé gown with a white front panel. It was the epitome of chic.–Joanna Manganaro
Silhouette: Trumpet / Hourglass / Dirndl / Long and lean / Boxy on top
Color: Lipstick red / Navy / Taupe / Pumpkin / Charcoal / Black / Cobalt / Pale blue / Fuchsia / Chocolate / Wine / Pewter / White
Key Items: Trumpet skirts / Tailored jumpsuit / Sculptural sheaths / Fur pencil skirt / Lamé evening gown
Materials: Bonded wool / Glossy leather / Shaved fur / Lamé / Charmeuse / Fine-gauge cashmere / Striated suitings / Matte CDC / Lace
Print + Pattern: Color blocking / Abstract texture motifs
Details + Trim: Sharp shoulders / Color Blocking / Dropped flounces / Contrast linings / Raglan contrast sleeves / Piecing / Quilting
Accessories + Footwear: Wayfarer-inspired square sunglasses / Medium-width leather belts / Color blocked Mary Janes
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